America is in love with the burger; that much is evident. A great burger is a thing of beauty, and one that can take many forms. Some are grand and glamorous; others are great for being unassuming and, well … just plain greasy. To those in the culinary world, such flexibility represents one of the burger’s most endearing qualities. "It can be so many different things," says Richard Hamilton, a onetime White House chef and current hospitality consultant. "That’s the great thing about a burger as Americana."

If you’re looking for a nontraditional burger, Hamilton would send you to Umami Burger (www.umamiburger.com) in Santa Monica, Calif., with instructions to order the Triple Pork Burger. Starting with a fresh-ground pork patty, chef Adam Fleischman adds a layer of thick-cut, peppery bacon and spicy chorizo. The meat is then topped with manchego cheese and finished with pimiento aioli. "It’s sweet and smoky and everything you can imagine exploding all at once," Hamilton says. "When you first see it you think, ‘What in God’s name is that?’ And then you eat it, and it’s off-the-hook good."

Should your travels take you to southern Florida, as opposed to southern California, Brad Friedlander, the executive chef at Red the Steakhouse in Miami, would point you to South Beach’s Cheeseburger Baby (www.cheeseburgerbaby.net). "It’s not an upscale burger place," Friedlander explains, "but it’s really one of the best hamburgers I’ve had in my life. And everybody that I’ve sent there has said the same thing."

The burger’s secret, according to Friedlander, is its simplicity. First, top-quality ground beef is hand-rolled to order and smashed down on the griddle, which Friedlander says improves the consistency of the burger. But the griddle is just as important in the process. "You sear in the flavor better on a griddle than on the grill," he says. "That’s what they used to do back when a burger was a burger, before all these gourmet burgers came out."

But if gourmet is your goal, you can’t go wrong with db Bistro Moderne (www.danielnyc.com) in Manhattan and its aptly named db Burger. Created by chef Daniel Boulud in 2001 with the intent of combining French and American cuisine, the burger boasts a ground sirloin base stuffed with red wine–braised short ribs, foie gras, a mirepoix of root vegetables, and preserved black truffles. Served on a homemade, toasted Parmesan and poppy seed bun, the burger is finished with fresh horseradish, oven-roasted tomato confit, fresh tomato, red onions, and frisée lettuce.

"It’s a large burger and it’s pretty hard to get your mouth around it, but once you do, it’s worthwhile," says Joel Buchman, a regular patron of db Bistro Moderne who frequently orders the burger. "What sends me is the foie gras. Unquestionably, this is unique; it’s in a class by itself."

If you’re craving an upscale burger without the lavish accoutrements, The Burger, as it’s known at Radius (www.radiusrestaurant.com) in Boston’s financial district, will not disappoint. Seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil a day before, each 9-ounce patty is seared quickly on an open flame and then slow-roasted to the desired level of doneness, creating a consistent temperature through the meat. Generously topped with Vermont cheddar, a creamy horseradish sauce, and crispy onions, the burger delivers on quality without conjuring any lingering suspicions that it might be trying too hard.

"Burgers are like sex," says Roy Roberts, a frequent patron at Radius. "I’ve never really had a bad one, but there are some that are exceptional. That’s where this one falls. It’s the skillful convocation of the finest elements of master burger-building. It is the Phi Beta Burger!"

Note: Duck is the main course for October, and we welcome your suggestions. Had a memorable duck dish over the years? Tell us about it and where you ordered it. You may just see the dish on this page in our next issue. Send comments to our editor at shaunt@robbreport.com or give him a call at 978-264-7565.