Collection Gift Guide: Parallel Twin Racer for the Wrist

Walt Mundkowsky

12/01/2006

The French watchmaker BRM (Bernard Richards Manufacture) produces exotic timepieces from the Val-d’Oise region, not far from Paris. To the seasoned Formula One enthusiast, BRM also means British Racing Motors, whose black P578 the late Graham Hill piloted to the 1962 World Championship. That was before Richards’ time, but his watches confirm the way racing components inspire him—the MT automatic chronograph has been dubbed “the ultimate engine block for the wrist.”

Even these remarkable creations are surpassed by Richards’ new limited-edition Birotor, priced at around $62,725. The name indicates the parallel rotors at 6 and 12 o’clock for automatic winding; the upper one turns faster and is more sensitive to slight motion. Ceramic ball bearings eliminate the need for oil lubrication, and their differential action mandates consistency and guards against physical jolts. In all, seven arms with heavy tantalum bob weights (in red) are employed. Each round weight has an aluminum core to improve balance. The movement features a 50-hour power reserve and the watch is water resistant to 100 feet.

Richards clearly finds mechanical processes beautiful, because the case—available in titanium or rose gold—aims for unusual transparency, with windows in the side of the case as an option. The movement couples to a four-prong suspension anchored by what look like miniature auto shocks, their carbon-fiber coils shining in red. This color motif extends to the hands, in circles and arrow points. For comfort, the stem on this rectangular instrument has been placed at 2 o’clock, and incorporates a rotary mechanism for setting time and winding. Notable are the three-position case lugs, supplied with an accompanying tool, that allow for perfect adjustment for each wearer’s wrist. All hardware is designed and fabricated at BRM, down to the trademark strap buckle with 12 parts. Customers should expect a waiting list, though. “We are doing something completely different here,” Richards says, “and it takes time.”

BRM, 214.231.0144, www.brm-manufacture.com
available at King Jewelers, 305.935.4900, or Chatel, 831.626.3445