Destinations: Sound And Vision

Jenny Hall

08/01/2006

Off Bledsoe street in the northernmost neighborhood of Los Angeles, conservatively attired men and women gather on the basement level of a beige, windowless building. The 10 am tour of the Nethercutt Collection—240 automobiles, 170 of which are on display in Sylmar, Calif.—will begin shortly.

The windowless building, San Sylmar, and the Nethercutt Museum, across the street, house what is arguably the most perfectly restored automotive collection in the world. The group of cars, all of which are kept in working order, includes an unprecedented six Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance Best of Show winners. Until 1973, the collection—then fewer than 50 cars—was stored in various parking lots underneath canvas covers.

Our tour guide, Janis, arrives to escort us upstairs to a second room full of Nethercutt cars. The Grand Salon, with polished marble floors, Bavarian cut crystal chandeliers, and tall salmon-colored marble columns, boasts 33-foot ceilings and room for 30 cars. On the wall opposite the entrance hang oil-on-canvas portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Nethercutt. Underneath the paintings on a carpeted staircase landing, a reproducing baby grand piano plays Gershwin’s "Rhapsody in Blue." (Click image to enlarge)

J.B. Nethercutt, who died in December 2004, spent the latter half of his life collecting and restoring fine automobiles. After making his fortune selling cosmetics, he began to restore the cars he had dreamed of owning as a newlywed in his 20s. Thus, the Grand Salon, modeled after manufacturer showrooms of the 1920s and 1930s, was conceived because Nethercutt liked his cars presented as they were in his fond memories.

Janis points out the cornerstone of this collection, the 1933 "Twenty Grand" Duesenberg sedan. Along with a 1923 McFarlan, 1928 Isotta Franchini, and 1933 Hispano-Suiza are a number of horseless carriages, antiques such as an 1886 Benz Patent Motorwagen Reproduction and a 1904 Packard Model L Rear Entrance Tonneau.

Our group is led up the carpeted staircase to the Grand Salon’s mezzanine level. Passing a room-length glass cabinet filled with hood ornaments, we climb a smaller spiral staircase to the third floor. Cloud 99, the music room, houses a collection that started when Nethercutt purchased a small music box as an anniversary gift for his wife, Dorothy, an act that led to his fascination with mechanical music. Acting in character, he sought to round up the most unusual, enormous instruments. The orchestrion, a mechanical organ able to mimic the sound of an entire orchestra, is the Duesenberg of the lot.

The Pan Orchester sold in 1925 for nearly $20,000 to a hotel owner who (like Nethercutt) had to have the biggest orchestrion in the world. Inside the self-playing organ are 10 rolls that automatically alternate, like a CD changer. The 536 organ pipes, piano, drums, cymbals, orchestra bells, xylophone, glockenspiel, and dinner chimes simulate the effect of an entire orchestra. Janis opens a small hatch at the front of the instrument and flips a switch. The overhead lights dim, the lumpy green and purple carpeting underfoot (designed to look and feel like a field of blooming clover) fades away, and a mechanical rendition of "Ode to Joy" takes over. The bellows of two accordions mounted to the front of the wooden casing squeeze in and out by themselves. The sound may approximate that of a symphony, but the ambience is something less than philharmonic when the spectators are watching a machine rather than an ensemble of accomplished musicians. People do not look calm or moved. There are blank stares, wrinkled brows, and even some frowns, as wives stay close to their stationary husbands.

More than collecting and restoring old cars, Nethercutt committed his life to preserving the past for future generations. San Sylmar serves as his time machine, and you will not find anything quite like it. Free tours of San Sylmar run twice daily Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are required. The museum employs a live organist for bimonthly concerts. Check concert schedule online for dates and times.